For as long as I’ve inhabited this island Maui, my relationship with big waves and the man who dare to ride them has been a solid roller coaster of emotions and vibrations.   You name it, I’ve felt it and I’ve been there.   More than twice.   As I teenager I dreamed about Hawaii and the big waves. I …

In the Polynesian mythology Hiro was the God of thieves, a trickster  It is said that this God had a child with a woman from Raiatea.  Or perhaps I should say that there was a woman from Raiatea who gave birth to a giant.   A nepheline as some might call and they called him Hiro. When he grew up …